I love Rocky Road

Saturday June 30, Scauri

Pretty much pack and go after a light breakfast of sweet rolls at the Agritourisma Casamia hotel. Let’s just say that we got our 25 euros worth from this place!

I hadn’t really looked at a map but assumed that we’d be taking highways to Scauri, but this was definitely not the case! It turned out be an intense three hours of driving in a southwest direction across the skinniest part of the Italian peninsula. It’s also where the biggest mountains are, separating the verdant Adriatic coast from the more arid Mediterranean side.

Our course was about 1/4 super highway, then some on separated two lane, and a big chunk of it was little more than paved cart path. We went over a mile long bridge near Lago di Bomba with a stunning view of the hillside town of Villa Sta. Maria, to a horse cart path in less than a couple kilometers. Our van barely squeezed through the barricades that prevented larger vehicles from taking the route. The weird thing is that I never saw other options for roads, the highway merely dumped us onto a curvaceous trail better suited for ox cart. Where did all the trucks go? From the town of Quadri on SS652 all the way to Castel di Sangro I was white knucklin’ it. I will never forget this drive.

We were ready for lunch and stopped in Venafro. The only thing we could find was a pizzaria which was fine. We walked around a little. A few weddings happening in town, you know this by a honking processional of cars flying white lace from the antenna. From Venafro, it was all downhill, with a brief ride on the A1, Italy’s major artery, and then back to a two lane road to the coast and Scauri.

Scauri is another beach town, weathered and bleached. It feels packed, pedestrians fill the sidewalks on the main drag and the beach promenade. Our hotel is the Aurora and the staff is really friendly. It’s a big and plain place, no rugs. It’s a family place with toddlers and grannies mingling and the floors can be divided into suites as needed.

While Jono dipped in the pool and Abraham dipped in the Mediterranean, Karen and I took a stroll around town. By the beach and the many beach clubs, the sunbathers are packing up. We turned inland and walked to the main road and found a grocery store and tried to get some healthy snacks. I’m really craving peanut butter and asparagus. The spread is easier to find, even if it’s Skippy.

It was only a 10 minute drive to the the Mary Rock club, just over a hill from Scauri and down a narrow dirt road. The restaurant overlooks a beautiful cove and beach where the umbrellas and chaise lounges are mostly empty at this time of day. The beach is rocky, with lots of sea glass (with a bar overhanging the water, you can imagine how many bottles get thrown over.) This part of the coastline faces due south, so we couldn’t see the sunset beyond the far hill of the cove to the west. We knew when the sun had gone down when the mosquitos came out.

We hang out to soak up the scenery until the Bradipos IV arrive after 7. They’re sharing our back line, so we all help load in. The load in is much longer than last night’s few feet. It’s a long skinny restaurant, and they clear out a few tables at the far end, near the stairs to the beach, as a stage. A good size PA is set up, though we never need them. Massi has brought his tattered but sweet Fender Vibrolux and a 1963 Jazzmaster for Jono, the best he’s ever sounded.

We share tables and food with the Bradipos, there’s a lot to catch up on. Karen and I will go to their hometown of Casserta in a few days so we mostly discuss plans. At 10:30 (or so, Italian style) they go on and play most of their new album. The songs are really great, and rock hard. (Watch this blog for a full review.) They close the set with two of my favorites, Amor e O’Bene and their classic version of Morricone’s "Titloli" from Fist Full of Dollars.

Around midnight (or so, Italian style) we get it rolling for an hour or so. The restaurant is full, and they’re active and enthusiastic listeners. Only one couple dares to dance. After the show, lots more chatting with the Bradipos and some locals, and we sold a few singles. We have been sold out of CDs for a few days- I thought the vinyl would be more popular than the CDs.

I want to give an appreciation to the amazing waitress at the Mary Rock. She worked 20 tables by herself from 7 til 1:30, then tore down the PA at the end of the night. She looked like a volleyball player, and did the whole shift in flip-flops. She kicked ass, and there’s no tipping in Italy.

Back to the Aurora by 2am, tomorrow will be another long driving day.